Brief
(unofficial)
History of Mountaineering and Climbing
Sport in Estonia,
History of
"Firn" Included
The Estonian mountaineering tradition can be traced back to
the beginning of the 19th century when the founder of scientific mountaineering
Johann Jacob Friedrich Wilhelm Parrot climbed several high mountains in Caucasus,
Alps, and Pyrenees. On 27 September 1829
(9 October New Style), being at that time a professor of physics of the
University of Tartu
(then 'University of Dorpat'), J.J.F. Parrot performed the First Ascent of
Mt. Ararat
(5137m) along with
Khachatur Abovian (the future famous Armenian poet) and four other companions -
this event is also deemed to mark the birth of Russian Alpinism.
An organized alpinism emerged in Estonia many years later.
There is no high mountains in Estonia, and during half a century
before Estonia finally restored its independence in 1991 the travelling
possibilities were to the large extent restricted to the
borders of the former SU, so...
That's how it all began:
1956
- for the first time seven Estonians attend SU
high-mountain training camps for climbers in Central
Caucasus
- on 11 August, Bernhard Sillaots is the first Estonian climber to ascend
Mt. Elbrus (5642m)
1957
- eighteen Estonian climbers led by Peeter Varep ascend
Mt. Kazbek
(5054m) in Central
Caucasus (July 29-30)
- founded is the Mountaineering Section of Tallinn
(later transformed into a Club - "Tallinna Alpinismiklubi" = TAK)
1958
- on 4 August, Jaanus Orgulas ascends
(with German climbers) the Eastern Summit of
Mt. Elbrus (5621m) in Central
Caucasus; the next day 31 more Estonian climbers
ascend the summit (Hillar Kaal, Väino Lepasepp, Albert Sulg, P. Varep, et al)
1959
- Mountaineering Club “Firn” is founded in Tartu by about 20 students
(among others, Rein Küttim, Jüri Martin, and Vello Park) of the
University of Tartu
(at that time known as 'Tartu State University')
Since 1960, several official commemorative dates were
used as pleas for organizing expeditions with a goal of
ascending one of the 7000+m peaks in
Pamir
or ascending and naming virgin peaks never ascended before…
1960
- on 30 July, in course of an Estonian expedition led by
P. Varep, fifteen climbers participate in the ascent
of a 6211m high virgin peak in Zaalayskiy mountain range
(Pamir),
which is named “Estonia”: H. Kaal (the leader) + P. Varep,
Heino Paltser, Juhan Ahlberg, A. Sulg, Kalju Jõeväli, Otto Neiman,
Jukk Raudsepp, J. Martin, V. Lepasepp, Felix Jürna, Ilmar Milliste,
Eduard Schults, Lea Kukk-Prunsveld, Aita Lumiste-Eek.
1964
- H. Paltser is the first Estonian climber to perform a climb
rated 5B by the Russian Federation Difficulty Rating System
(RUS) - compare to the
Alpine Grading System used in Western Europe
- Enn Vestre is the first Estonian climber to ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m,
Pamir)
1965
- in course of an expedition led by P. Varep 14 Estonian climbers ascend
Pik Lenin
(7134m) on 11 August: H. Paltser (the leader) + P. Varep, A. Sulg,
F. Jürna, and another group (from the south) - Ragnar Palmre +
E. Agasild, Kaljo Palmiste, Ilmar Palo, V. Park, Ilmar Priimets,
S. Rehtsalu, Jüri Tohver, Ain Uusna, T. Salo
1966
- the Emblem of "Firn" is designed
by Heino Kuur
1967
- three Estonian climbers ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m): Vello Vets, Peet Väinastu, Ilmar Sööt
- the High-Mountain Hiking School starts in Tartu, led for many following years by Kalle Kiiranen
1968
- V. Park is the first Estonian to perform a climb rated 6
(RUS) by
ascending
Ailama (4547m) with a group of Georgian climbers, the group
becoming the winner of 1968 Championship of Georgia
1970
- the 3rd Estonian Pamir-expedition: 12 climbers led by I. Priimets ascend
Pik Korzhenevskaya (7105m); 8 climbers ascend
Pik Communism (7495m, now known as Ismoil Somoni; the first ascent by
climbers from Balticum) - H. Paltser + I. Priimets, Jaak Sumeri, Tõnu Tennisson,
J. Tohver, A. Uusna, Priit Vürst, Kuldev
Ääremaa; four climbers obtain the title of
'Snow Leopard of Pamirs'
1972
- four climbers (P. Varep, V. Park, K. Palmiste, I. Palo) ascend
Pik Communism (7495m), Peeter Varep
(Tallinn, 1914-1984) becoming in 1972 probably one of the eldest men to climb at 7000+m altitudes
- Heino Paltser is killed by a casual falling stone while
climbing a rock route rated 5B (RUS) in
Tian Shan †
- founded is the Mountaineering Club of Tallinn (TAK)
1973
- in course of an Estonian expedition to the South-Western Pamir led by
P. Vürst, a high-altitude traverse rated 5B (RUS) between the peaks of Nikoladze (6250m) and
Pik Karl Marx (6723m) is performed by a group led by T. Tennisson
1974
- in course of an Estonian expedition (led by I. Priimets) to
Pik Lenin (7134m,
Pamir)
from the south, 7 peaks are ascended (incl. 2 virgin peaks + 1 new route; Pik Lenin - J. Ahlberg, Hindrek Kriis, Enn Branno, Mati Klein, V. Park, K. Palmiste, Risto Tanner, Lembit Hiiesalu, I. Palo);
the expedition ends very tragically - three of the most experienced Estonian climbers are killed by an unexpected snow avalanche (triggered by an earthquake)
just below the summit of Pik Lenin on its most difficult route from the south.
They were motors of "Firn" -
Erik Reino, Tõnu Tennisson, Priit Vürst (the acting president)... ; the survivors E. Saar and J. Sumeri have had a very narrow escape † † †
- the first group of climbers from Estonia visits the Alps
- the silver mark
designed in 1959 by J. Martin is established as the mark of "Firn's"
membership; all the marks assigned to new members carry their
individual serial numbers, the mark No.1 is assigned to E. Saar
- Olaf Sööt and Jüri Tint (residing abroad) are the first
Estonians to ascend
Mt. McKinley (6190m, the highest peak of the continent of North America,
Alaska)
1977
- the 175th anniversary of the
reopening of the
University of Tartu
is commemorated by "Firn" in the form of an expedition to
Mt. Kazbek (5054m, Central
Caucasus),
in course of which some young members of "Firn" (Kalle Hansen, H. Kriis, Karl Ottas, Jaan Paaver, Ivo Parmas, Immar Puun, Aivar Pärgmäe, Veiko Tamm, Toomas Täht) symbolically finish the historical (1811) unfinished
ascent of this peak by J.J.F. Parrot (who later became a rector of
University of Tartu 1831-1833)
- joint expedition with Latvian climbers to the Alai mountain range in
Pamir: ascended are several virgin peaks, including (with participation of Rein Loik) a 5300m high peak named after the Latvian capital city Riga
1978
- the first 4 Estonian climbers are invited to join the
International Mountaineering Camp (IMC) in Pamir
as guides for climbers from outside the SU; during the following 15 years many climbers from Estonia will use the opportunity to combine
their work for IMC with high-altitude or technical climbs
- the 150th anniversary of J.J.F. Parrot's ascent of
Mt. Ararat is commemorated by ascending
Pik Korzhenevskaya
(7105m,
Pamir): J. Ahlberg, I. Priimets, E. Saar, J. Sumeri
1979
- Helme Suuk becomes the first Estonian woman to ascend a 7000+m high peak:
Pik Lenin
(7134m,
Pamir), in course of an expedition led by I. Priimets
- on 7 August, an Estonian climber Enok Põllu lose his life in
Fann Mountains (Pamir-Alay, Tajikistan) while ascending the summit of Alaudin †
1982
- Urmas Grauen performs with a group of mountain guides an eight day-long
(due to the bad weather conditions) climb of the 1200m-long route "Kamin Kagor" (Central Asia),
rated 6 (RUS)
- the 350th anniversary of the
founding of the
University of Tartu
is commemorated by “Firn” with an expedition to the Tanimas
mountain range (Central
Pamir) led by Kalev Muru; two virgin peaks are ascended and named
respectively “Tartu Ülikool 350” (6350m) -
K. Muru + Anu Kallavus, K. Hansen, Andres Paris, Kalle Aedviir, Jaan Künnap,
and “J.F. Parrot” (6277m) - Alfred Lõhmus + H. Suuk, I. Parmas, Ivo Goldi, Ants Salk, Ants Stern
- before the expedition Estonian climbers participate
vigorously in several SU high-mountain training camps - there is a record
number of 148 participants from Estonia during the summer months
1983
- on 10 August, I. Priimets is the first Estonian climber to ascend (with a group from IMC)
Jengish Chokusu
(7439m,
Tian Shan, then known as 'Pik Pobeda'), thus becoming the first Estonian climber to obtain the title of
'Snow Leopard'
- Rein Grauberg ("Firn") dies after falling ill while approaching
Pik Lenin (Pamir) with a group of hikers †
- Jaak Sumeri (Viljandi) dies of a stroke while working as a Mountain Guide in an alpine camp in Central Asia †
1984
- in course of an Estonian Pamir expedition led by I. Priimets a 6047m high
virgin peak is ascended and named “Tallinn” (in honour of the Estonian capital city)
by three separate groups using different routes: (17 August) I. Priimets +
U. Grauen, E. Branno, R. Loik; (18 August) J. Künnap + A. Kallavus, K. Muru, A. Paris, A. Stern, Tõnis Lepik; (19 August) I. Goldi + H. Suuk, Edgar Haavik,
A. Salk, Jüri Treijar, R. Tanner, V. Park, L. Hiiesalu, P. Väinastu;
on 18 and 20 August, A. Lõhmus and K. Hansen ascend two virgin peaks
(5750m and 5700m), one of which is named “Kalev”
- Andrei Melnikov (TAK) performs (with a Russian group) two ascents of Bodhana (5138m, Fann Mountains,
Pamir-Alay, Tajikistan) via routes rated 6 (RUS)
1985
- H. Suuk is the first Estonian woman to perform a technical
ascent rated 5B (RUS): she performs three of such climbs in
Fann Mountains
(Pamir-Alay, Tajiksistan)
- Tiina Tamm ("Firn") perishes in a crevasse region while descending from
Pik Lenin
(Pamir)
after a nonofficial attempt to climb the mountain with V. Tamm †
1986
- in summer, during the 6 weeks spent at IMC
(Pamir),
K. Muru, A. Lõhmus and J. Künnap ascend
Pik Korzhenevskaya (7105m),
Pik Communism (7495m), and
Pik Lenin (7134m),
thus obtaining the titles of
'Snow Leopard of Pamirs'
- Balticum'86, an annual meeting of climbers from Estonia, Latvia,
and Lithuania combined with a contest of their reports on the last year's ascents, is organized by "Firn" and held in the
Sangaste Castle in
Southern Estonia
1987
- on August 8, the first Estonian clibmers (A. Lõhmus, K. Muru, J. Künnap) ascend
Khan Tengri (7010m,
Tian Shan)
with a Russian group from IMC, all acquiring their titles of
'Snow Leopard'
1989
- in severe winter conditions U. Grauen and A. Paris ascend Ullu-tau (4207m, Central
Caucasus)
via a new North Face route
they rate 5B (RUS) and descend via the same route
- two Estonian climbers (Tõivo Sarmet + Paul Poopuu) ascend
Khan Tengri (7010m,
Tian Shan)
- eleven climbers ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m,
Pamir) in course of an expedition led by Mihhail Sobelman
- in course of an Estonian expedition to Pamiro-Alai, six
"Firn" climbers (K. Muru + K. Hansen, Uuno Ader, Ain Niller,
Sven Mäses, A. Paris) ascend a ~4500m high virgin peak, naming
it "Estonian University" in honor of the 70th anniversary of establishment of the first Estonian national university in Tartu in 1919
1990
- in course of an expedition to
Pamir and
Tian Shan led by Vladimir Vladimirov and guided by J. Künnap,
Pik Lenin (7134m) is ascended by 15 and
Khan Tengri (7010m)
by 7 (H. Suuk, Igor Lemachko, V. Vladimirov, et al) climbers;
H. Suuk is the first Estonian woman to ascend
Khan Tengri
- in Pamir,
a group of 5 climbers led by T. Sarmet ascends peak Estonia (6211m) and
Pik Lenin (7134m)
1991
- an expedition to Central
Pamir led by U. Grauen is held in course of preparations to the
planned Annapurna expedition; performed are the First Ascents of two virgin peaks named correspondingly as "Norma" (5467m, ascended by Valdek Udris, S. Mäses, Toomas Kalve, Jüri Vilismäe, Viktor Palm, et al) and "Paide" (5341m);
11 climbers ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m)
- in course of a Pamir
expedition led by V. Vladimirov,
Pik Korzhenevskaya
(7105m) is ascended by 5 and
Pik Communism (7495m)
by 7 climbers (both groups guided by J. Künnap);
H. Suuk is the first Estonian woman to acquire the title of
'Snow Leopard of Pamirs'
- in Pamir, three climbers (T. Sarmet, Raivo Plumer, Heiki Erm) of a hiking expedition led by T. Sarmet ascend
Pik Korzhenevskaya (7105m) on 12 August and
Pik Communism (7495m) on 22 August
- Olev Sõerumäe is the first Estonian resident to ascend
Mont Blanc (4808m,
Western Alps)
- Estonia (being represented by "Firn") becomes a member of
UIAA
1992
- three Estonian groups (led by V. Vladimirov, U. Grauen, and T. Sarmet)
climb in Pamir; 8 climbers ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m)
1993
- three Estonian climbers of two groups (led respectively by Peedo Nelke and T. Sarmet) ascend
Khan Tengri (7010m,
Tian Shan):
P. Nelke and Eero Ots - on 2 August, and Tarmo Riga - on 4 August
- Mont Blanc (4808m,
Western Alps)
is ascended by the first Estonian group of 11 climbers (led by V. Vladimirov and J. Künnap, incl. the first woman H. Suuk)
1994
- an invitation for a group from "Firn" to visit
Swiss Alps is initiated by
Paul Hilber
from the Toggenburg local section of Swiss Alpine Club;
in course of the expedition led by Erika Ader (Nõo)
the first seven climbers from Estonia ascend
Matterhorn
(4478m) via its classical Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) route:
Priit Jaagant, Norman Aas, Kaari Kivikas-Simson (the first woman, only 16 years old), Ivar Mäerand, Karri Kukk, and (in a separate group)
Aleksei Kovalchuk and Sergei Põshnjuk
- two groups of climbers from Tallinn (led respectively by V. Vladimirov -
15 climbers and U. Grauen - 11 climbers, including the first two Estonian women Els Kütt and Aili Grauen) ascend
Mt. Kilimanjaro
(5895m, the highest peak of the continent of Africa)
- in course of an expedition to
Jengish Chokusu
(7439m, Tian Shan)
led by Aki Kettunen (Finland), E. Ots and P. Nelke reach the so-called
Black Obelisk (7100m); T. Sarmet reaches the altitude of 6918m (the Western summit)
- the Estonian membership in
UIAA is stopped (postponed due to financial problems)
1995
- Rein Grabbi (residing in USA) is the first Estonian climber to ascend
Aconcagua
(6961m, the highest peak of the continent of South America, the
Andes)
- Matterhorn
(4478m) is ascended (via Hörnligrat) by a group of 5 climbers led by T. Sarmet
1996
- "Firn" resumes its activities after nearly two years
of stagnation caused by recent political and social changes in Estonia,
and new groups of dedicated young people (mainly students)
start with their training and alpine education process
1997
- A. Kovalchuk is the first climber from Estonia to summit a 8000+m high peak:
he ascends Cho Oyu
(8188m, Himalaya)
- two groups from Tallinn ascend
Aconcagua
(6961m, the Andes):
T. Sarmet + Arne Sarapuu, R. Plumer, ... (altogether 4 climbers),
and J. Künnap + Enn Nõmmik, Üllar Põld
- the "Tallinn Rock Climbing Club"
("
Tallinna Kaljuronimisklubi" = TKK) is founded by 14 active climbers
in Tallinn; the first climbing gym in Estonia is opened in Tallinn
- the "Mountain Expeditions Club"
("Mägiekspeditsioonide Klubi" = MEK) is founded in Tallinn
1998
- the tradition of an annual ice-climbing competition
held at Rannamõisa sea-bank near Tallinn is revived by MEK
- a series of (becoming annual) "Opened Estonian Rock Climbing Competitions" is initiated by TKK
- an Estonian flag is for the first time hoisted as high as 8600m by Boris Slepikovsky (Sillamäe) who participates with A. Kovalchuk in an international expedition to
Mt. Everest (Himalaya),
both reaching altitudes over 8500m
- five Estonian climbers ascend
Cho Oyu (8188m) from
Tibet in course of the First Estonian Himalayan Expedition led by T. Sarmet:
on 9 October - A. Sarapuu and T. Riga; on 11 October - Margus Proos, R. Plumer, T. Sarmet
1999
- on 15 April, a group organized by the "Youth Travel Club"
("Noorte Matkaklubi" = NMK, Tallinn) and led by its founder Valdo Kangur ascends the Eastern Summit of
Mt. Elbrus
(5621m, Central Caucasus)
and descends using snowboards (V. Udris, Kristjan-Erik Suurväli,
Marek Hajetski, Erik Hajetski) and skis (V. Kangur, Peeter Luik, Renee Tuul;
also Ilka Uusitalo and Mika Seppänen from Finland)
- the Mountaineering Club Firn
("Alpiklubi Firn")
is founded on 18 May in Tartu by an initiative group of 21 climbers to continue the activities of the 'previous edition' of "Firn" ("Tartu Alpiklubi Firn"), which is officially discontinued being unable to fit the new law system;
the descendant club has a new statute and a well defined membership,
but the symbolics of the old "Firn" is taken over
- on 31 May, in course of an expedition organized by MEK and led by
T. Sarmet, seven Estonian climbers (T. Sarmet, Ivar Lai, Urmas Leppmets, I. Mäerand, R. Plumer, Raul Vahisalu,
Andrus Öövel) ascend
Mt. McKinley
(6190m, Alaska)
- the "Jaan Künnap's Mountaineering Club"
("
Jaan Künnapi Alpinismiklubi" = JKAK) is founded in Tallinn
in place of the disappeared Mountaineering Club of Tallinn
by an experienced Estonian climber and art photographer J. Künnap
- an 'Estonian invasion' to
Mont Blanc (4808m,
Western Alps):
somehow, several Estonian groups with far over 100 participants ascend the 'Top of the Western Europe' during the summer months, mostly from the Italian side (via the
Aiguilles Grises route, but also via the
Three-Mont-Blanc route)
- on 17 August, in course of a Pamir expedition organized by JKAK (becoming, as well as
Mt. Elbrus
expedition, an annual enterprise), two climbers (Alar Linna and Erik Hints) ascend
Pik Lenin
(7134m)
-
Balticum'99 is organized by "Firn" and held in Tartu
- a reunion meet dedicated to the 40th anniversary of "Firn" is held in Tartu; participating are
four of the historical presidents of "Firn"
2000
- the first Estonian Open Interclub Icewall-Climbing Competition
is organized at Rannamõisa at the end of March by NMK and
JKAK
- in course of an expedition organized by NMK and led by V. Kangur, six Estonian climbers (Toomas Sumeri, B. Slepikovsky, Toomas Holmberg, J. Vilismäe, V. Kangur, V. Udris) ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m);
on 21 August V. Udris descends from the top with his snowboard (the second such
descent at all and the first one via the North Face of the peak)
- the tradition of electing the club's best climbers and
hikers of the season is revived by "Firn" on the basis of new
statute
- "Firn" decides to establish an electronic database containing
information on mountain or climbing routes completed by climbers and hikers related to the Club; the
database
(in Estonian) is being under constant development
- to commemorate the first ascent of Annapurna (8091m)
by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal in 1950, the
Challenge Prize
of the Year's Best Estonian Mountaineer is established by
JKAK;
Valdek Udris (Tallinn) becomes the first winner of the
Prize
2001
- the tradition of Estonian "mountaineer's pentathlon" -
a complex of contests including cross-country skiing, running,
rock climbing and some gymnastic exercises - is revived by "Firn" under the new name of AMMV;
the first skiing competition of this new series
is held in January at Kääriku (Southern Estonia);
"Firn" is the first club to win the new Challenge Prize (called
"Sõitis Mäkke" - "Rode Into a Mountain") established
for the best club team in Skiing Relay-Race Competition
- the Night Rescue Competition is organized by
JKAK and held
on 27 March at Rannamõisa (becoming an annual enterprise)
- three JKAK climbers
(Priit Melnik, E. Nõmmik, Alar Sikk) ascend
Mt. McKinley
(6190m, Alaska)
- on 23 July, two climbers (R. Plumer, T. Riga) reach the
'Rocky Summit' (8012 m) on the summit ridge of
Broad Peak (8051m) in
Karakoram (Pakistan)
in course of a MEK expedition led by T. Sarmet
- two climbers (Urmas Peiker, Hannes Oja) ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m)
- on 23 August, V. Udris and Mart Toom are the first Estonian climbers to ascend
Matterhorn (4478m)
via its Lion Ridge (Liongrat) route from the Italian side
- the design of an
official flag of "Firn" is established in result of a contest
- the first in Estonia artificial
climbing wall
with a rock-like relief is opened in September in a new shoping center
"Lõunakeskus" (LK) in Tartu, the LK wall being for years administered by "Firn"
2002
- on 8 February, Toivo Laan ("Firn") performs a solo ascent of
Mt. Ararat (5137m),
being the first Estonian climber on the summit (after J.J.F. Parrot in 1829)
- on 15 May, A. Kovalchuk (Tallinn) is among the climbers to ascend
Lhotse
(8516m, Himalaya)
in course of an expedition organized by climbers from St.Petersburg
- on July 30, the flag of "Firn" is for the first time hoisted over the Italian summit of
Matterhorn (4477m)
by five climbers from Tartu (V. Palm, Priit Rooden, Meeri Sassian,
Vladimir Shor, Marko Veisson) after ascending via the south-west ridge (Liongrat, from the Italian side)
- five climbers (led by J. Künnap) ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m)
2003
- on May 22, A. Sikk (Võru) ascends
Mt. Everest (8849m)
from the North with Saulius Vilius (Lithuania) in course of the
First Estonian Mt. Everest expedition led by T. Sarmet (MEK);
Alar Sikk is the first Estonian climber to ascend
the highest summit on the Earth; Ivar Lai reaches the altitude of 8550m
everestnews.com
- two climbers (Leivo Sepp, Marko Kalve) ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m)
2004
- in April-May, Rain Lond and M. Kalve cross the Greenland icefield
on skis from east to west without dogs or any external support in course of their Greenland expedition (32 days, ~570 km), thus repeating
the achievement of the historic expedition led by
Fridtjof Nansen
back in 1888
- an expedition to
Khan Tengri
(7010m, Tian Shan)
organized by JKAK
fails due to the severe avalanche hazard
- a group led by T. Sarmet ascends
Mt. Ararat (5137m),
commemorating the 175th anniversary of the first ascent by J.J.F. Parrot
- a new handbook for hikers and climbers ('Matkaspordi Käsiraamat', in
Estonian, compiled by J. Künnap) contains a section on the history of mountaineering in Estonia
2005
- in course of an expedition organized by
JKAK,
two climbers (K.-E. Suurväli, Meelis Nurk) ascend
Aconcagua
(6961m, the Andes)
- a joint Estonian - Lithuanian
expedition to
Gasherbrum II (8035m,
Karakoram)
fails due to the severe avalanche hazard
- on July 21, V. Palm and M. Veisson are the first Estonian climbers to ascend the North Summit of
Ushba (4690m, Central
Caucasus)
- on August 11, Johan Kütt (22) ascends
Pik Lenin (7134m),
being definitely one of the youngest climbers to perform such a feat
2006
- on 20 July, Mart Kainel and Jaan Ainelo ascend
Matterhorn
(4478m) via the classical Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) route
- Eveli Habakuk (accompanied with a French climber) ascends
Illimani (6438m) and
Huayna Potosi (6088m) in Bolivian
Andes
- on 7 August, five climbers (K.-E. Suurväli + Priit Joosu, H. Oja, P. Rooden, Priit Simson) ascend
Pik Korzhenevskaya
(7105m); on August 17, P. Joosu ascends
Ismoil Samani (7495m, the former Pik Communism)
- on 17 August, T. Laan and Kalle Ribelus ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m)
- in August, 22 Estonian climbers (two of them only 13 years old) ascend
Mt. Kazbek (5054m) in Central
Caucasus
in course of an expedition to Georgian mountains organized by V. Kangur (becoming an annual enterprise)
- on 5 October, five climbers (Silver Aid, Marko Aid, Peeter Pihelgas, Eduard Aksjonov, Jürgen Saarniit) ascend
Mt. Ararat (5137m)
- on 26 November, 37 Estonian climbers ascend
Mt. Kilimanjaro
(5895m), thus establishing a new world record of the number of climbers
(all belonging to the same nation) ascending Mt. Kilimanjaro in one day (the
previous record was 32 climbers from USA)
- on 18 December, A. Sikk and Andras Kaasik ascend
Aconcagua
(6961m, the Andes)
2007
- on 13 January, five climbers (Jane Riga, A. Sikk, P. Melnik, T. Riga, T. Sumeri) ascend
Vinson Massif
(4892m, the highest peak of the continent of
Antarctica) in course of the first Estonian
Antarctica expedition
- on 25 May, E. Habakuk ("Firn") ascends with a French group
Mt. McKinley
(6190m, Alaska),
becoming the first Estonian woman on the summit
- on 17 June,
Huascaran
(6768m, Peruvian Andes)
is ascended by R. Plumer and Avo Rõõmussaar
- on 20 July, three climbers (J. Kütt, Tõnu Põld, Olavi Vaino) ascend
Matterhorn (4478m)
via Hörnligrat
- on 16 August, five climbers (Tiina Tamm, P. Joosu, J. Saarniit, Ü. Põld, Raimo Rotberg) ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m);
T. Tamm (Tallinn) is the second Estonian woman to ascend the peak
- in course of an expedition organized by V. Kangur,
four climbers (Argo Mere, Fred Viidul, Tarmo All, I. Mäerand) ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m);
on 18 August, A. Mere is the first Estonian to descend the peak with skis
(via its North Face); a day later, V. Kangur repeats the descent starting from the altitude of 6900m
- on 8 November, four JKAK
climbers (T. Põld, Taimar Väljataga, Marko Aasa, Kaido Savi) ascend
Lobuche East (6119m,
Himalaya)
- a new 8 meters high artificial
climbing wall
with a rock-like relief (being the second wall of this type in Tartu) is opened in the new sports hall of the
University of Tartu
- on 2 December, A. Sikk, A. Kaasik, and Ervin Mast are the
first Estonian climbers to ascend
Carstensz Pyramid
(or Puncak Jaya, 4884m), the highest mountain of the continent of Australia and Oceania, located on the island of
New Guinea
- on 18 December, four climbers ascend
Aconcagua
(6961m, the Andes):
P. Melnik, Pille Saluvere, Tõnu Veski, Aivar Sepp
- on 30 December, E. Habakuk ascends
Aconcagua
(6961m, the Andes)
2008
- in January, Allan Valge (JKAK)
ascends
Aconcagua
(6961m, the Andes)
- in January, T. Riga and J. Riga ascend five volcanoes in Ecuador
Andes:
Iliniza Norte(5126m),
Cotopaxi (5897m), and
Chimborazo (6263m),
as well as a bit easier routes of
Pasochoa (4200m) and
Corazon (4790m)
- on 27 January, A. Sikk ascends
Mt. Kilimanjaro
(5895m), becoming the first Estonian climber to ascend the highest mountains
on the seven continents (the
Seven Summits)
- in course of their one month long (starting 8 May)
Greenland expedition, Timo Palo (Estonia) and Audun Tholfsen (Norway) cross the Greenland icefield on skis from east to west without dogs or any external support
- on 9 July, Eva Liivak
("Firn") falls to her death while descending in a group of 6 from the summit of
Aiguille du Chardonnet
(3824m, French Alps) †
- on 25 July, 6 climbers ascend
Carstensz Pyramid
(4884m, New Guinea):
T. Sarmet, H. Suuk, Inna Lai, Ivar Lai, Rauno Pukkonen, Jaan Reimand
- on 8 August, U. Peiker ascends
Khan Tengri
(7010m, Tian Shan)
in course of an expedition to
Jengish Chokusu (7439m),
where P. Joosu and H. Oja reach the altitude of ~6900m (the Western summit)
- in August, Jelena Kravchenko and Anatoli Utemov ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m)
2009
- Balticum 2008
is organized by "Firn" and held in Tartu on 17 January
- in January, T. Riga and J. Riga ascend
Cerro Ramada (6384m) and
Mercedario (6720m)
in Central Andes,
Argentina
- in spring, A. Kaasik and Tanel Tuuleveski, accompanied with S. Vilius (Lithuania)
ascend Mt. McKinley
(6190m, Alaska)
- in May, T. Riga ascends
Damavand
(5671m) in
Alborz Mountains, Northern Iran
- on 4 August, Ü. Põld and T. Tamm ascend
Muztagh Ata
(7546m) in
Kunlun Mountains, China; T. Tamm (Tallinn) becomes the first Estonian woman to ascend a 7500+m peak
- in August, A. Valge (JKAK)
ascends
Pik Lenin (7134m) with a German group
- on 9 October, in course of an international expedition organized
to commemorate the 180th anniversary of the first ascent by J.J.F. Parrot, 19 Estonian climbers ascend
Mt. Ararat (5137m):
Vahur Luhtsalu, Virge Luhtsalu, J. Künnap, Riho Västrik, Erki Tammiksaar, U. Peiker, Marko Johanson, T. Holmberg, Jonne Kotta, Erik Jaaniso, Tõnis Tähe, Raili Hein, Roman Hein, Henri Semmel, Anu Tammepuu, Marge Lodjak, Toomas Meldre, Mairi Sikka, et al
- on 11 October, E. Habakuk ascends the Island Peak (or
Imja Tse, 6160m) in Central Nepal
Himalaya
along with her French companion Michel Adam;
on 2 November, the same Peak is ascended by a group of seven climbers organized by Travel Club Niperanaadi
("Niperanaadi Reisiklubi" = NR):
K. Hansen + Heldur Pedajas, A. Lõhmus, Veiko Orn, Kunnar Karu, Veiko Vaade, Kristel Joonasson
- on 5 December, T. Riga ascends
Aconcagua
(6961m, the Andes)
2010
- the
50th anniversary of "Firn" is selebrated in Tartu
on 9 January; participating are
six
of the nine historical presidents of "Firn"
- in January, F. Viidul and Mikk Pääru ascend
Aconcagua
(6961m, the Andes)
- on 13 May, Andres Karu becomes the first Estonian climber to ascend all 45 highest summits of the European countries
- on 22 May, T. Tuuleveski and A. Valge
ascend Cho Oyu
(8188m, Himalaya)
- on 16 July, four climbers (Toomas Kuul, Helen Korju, Anu Peljo, Martin Ruudi) ascend
Matterhorn (4477m)
from the Italian side, via Liongrat
- on 22 July, Tõnis Peljo performs a successful solo ascent of
Pik Lenin (7134m)
- in course of an expedition to
Kunlun Mountains (China) led by K.-E. Suurväli,
on 27 July seven climbers (K.-E. Suurväli, P. Joosu, P. Simson, A. Mere, Siim Kadak, Jaan Sibul, M. Aasa) ascend
peak Lazio (6045m) via a new route; on 3 August three climbers
(M. Aasa, P. Joosu, K.-E. Suurväli) ascend a 5227m high virgin peak, proposing to name the peak "Uku"
- K. Karu (Tartu, NR) participates in
SummitClimb INC Autumn 2010 expedition in Central Nepal
Himalaya, ascending
Mera Peak (6476m)
on 23 October and
Baruntse (7162m)
on 3 November
2011
- on 24 February, three climbers (R. Plumer, J. Reimand, T. Sarmet) ascend
Pico de Orizaba volcano
(5636m, the highest peak in
Mexico);
in early April this volcano is ascended solo by A. Karu
- T. Tuuleveski and A. Kaasik participate in the
Jagged Globe Everest expedition and ascend
Mt. Everest (8849m)
from the South on 19 May (the first Estonian
climbers to ascend Mt. Everest from Nepal)
- in course of an expedition to South-Western Pamir, on
28 July five climbers (P. Joosu + P. Simson, A. Valge,
J. Sibul, Sven Oja) ascend
Pik Karl Marx (6723m)
- on 3 August, six Estonian climbers (Ü. Põld + T. Tamm, O. Vaino, Arno Sults, Kaupo Tiislär, Koit Teder) ascend
Koskulak
(7028m) in
Kunlun Mountains, China
- on 3 August, Uko Nõulik and Anu Nõulik (
JKAK) ascend
Muztagh Ata (7546m) in
Kunlun Mountains, China
- on 10 August, T. Riga and J. Riga (accompanied by Sherpa Nima) ascend
Nun (7135m) in
Himalaya,
India
2012
- on 12 February, five climbers (Kalle Oja, Sven Vallimae, Meelis Luukas, Indrek Tammemagi, Tiit Orlovski) ascend
Aconcagua
(6961m, the Andes)
- starting from the North Pole on 23 April, in course of their 72 days long ski/kayak expedition,
T. Palo (Tartu) and A. Tholfsen (Norway) cross, without any
external support, the Arctic Ocean and partly the mountains of Spitsbergen,
arriving on 3 July to Longyearbyen, thus being the first team to fulfill a similar plan of Fridtjof Nansen;
Guinness World Records 2015
- on 31 July, all ten participants of an Estonian expedition supported by
University of Tartu
(Andres Hiiemäe + Merili Simmer, E. Jaaniso, P. Rooden, M. Aasa, T. Põld,
S. Oja, P. Joosu, P. Simson, K.-E. Suurväli) accomplish the second ascent
(30 years after the first one) of the "Tartu Ülikool 350" peak in Central Pamir;
according to their GPS measurements, the peak is 6258m high
- P. Melnik and P. Saluvere ascend
Pequeno Alpamayo (5370m)
in Bolivian Andes
- on 28 October, K. Karu (Tartu, NR)
becomes the first Estomian climber to ascend
Ama Dablam (6812m, Central Nepal
Himalaya)
while participating in the
SummitClimb INC Ama Dablam 2012 autumn expedition
2013
- on 4 April, the Island Peak (or
Imja Tse, 6160m) in Central Nepal
Himalaya is ascended by a group of six climbers: R. Plumer + Ain Polma, M. Proos, J. Reimand,
A. Rõõmussaar, Margit Salmar
- on 13 May, U. Nõulik and A. Nõulik make an attempt to ascend
Cho Oyu
(8188m, Himalaya),
reaching at least the summit plateau
- on 17 August, Indrek Tammemägi ascends with an international group
Stok Kangri (6134m, India)
- on 27 December, Tarmo Ploom is the first Estomian climber to ascend the Africa's second highest mountain
Mount Kenya's peak Nelion (5188m)
- on 29 December, K. Karu (accompanied by a local guide Duncan) is the first Estomian climber to ascend the both peaks of Africa's second highest mountain
Mount Kenya - peak Batian (5199m) and peak Nelion (5188m)
2014
- on 2 August, four climbers (P. Joosu, A. Valge, M. Luukas, Meelis Kuris) ascend
Khan Tengri (7010m)
from the north
- on 8 August, five climbers (Aivar Kolga, A. Peljo, Ene Soop, Lauri Ehrenpreis,
Lauri Stern) of the group of 16 led by O. Vaino ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m)
- in South America, K. Karu (accompanied by a local guide)
ascends in October-November several volcanoes in Ecuador
Andes, including
Pasochoa (4200m),
Iliniza Norte (5126m),
Iliniza Sur (5245m, via SE ridge),
Cotopaxi (5897m),
Cayambe (5790m),
Antisana (5753m), and
Chimborazo (6263m), and on
30 December - Aconcagua
(6961m, via Polish Glacier traverse route)
2015
- on 10 January, a reunion meet dedicated to the 55th anniversary of "Firn" is held in Tartu; attending are
eight
of the historical presidents of "Firn"
- on 15 January, A. Kaasik and his daughter Triin Kaasik ascend (being participants of an international expedition)
Vinson Massif
(4892m, the highest peak of the continent of
Antarctica), which makes
Andras Kaasik the second Estonian climber to join the
Seven Summits "club"
- on 23 January, three Estonian climbers (M. Aasa, Vambola Sipelgas, Lisette-Huaniita Sipelgas) ascend
Aconcagua
(6961m, the Andes)
- another 7 climbers ascend
Aconcagua (6961m) on 12 February
(I. Tammemägi + Ain Rästa, Krista Kirspuu, Allan Sülla) and on 14 February
(Endro Roosimäe, A. Karu, Katrin Merisalu)
- on 7 June, a tragic accident claims the lives of
three highly experienced Estonian climbers (Tallinn):
Tarmo Riga, Allan Valge, and Jane Riga - while ascending
Tocllaraju mountain
(6034m) in Cordillera Blanca, Peruvian
Andes
they are buried under a huge mass of ice/snow inside a large glacier crevice
at ~5900m altitude in result of an ice bridge collapse; the group's only survivor,
Annemai Märtson (Tallinn), escapes a ~25m deep crevice the next day with the help of local rescue team † † †
- in July, P. Joosu and P. Simson ascend in Cordillera Blanca the peak
Alpamayo (5947m, Peruvian
Andes)
- in July, an attempt by T. Tuuleveski and A. Kaasik to climb
K2 (8611m) in
Karakoram (Pakistan)
with Madison Mountaineering expedition is aborted due to extremely harsh conditions
- on 26 July, three climbers (E. Soop, L. Ehrenpreis, L. Stern) ascend
Matterhorn (4478m)
via Liongrat
- on 18 August, five climbers (Ü. Põld + T. Tamm, A. Rästa, K. Tiislär, M. Luukas) ascend
Pik Korzhenevskaya (7105m)
2016
- on 24 July, six climbers of an expedition led by P. Joosu (Ruslan Aizatulin, A. Rästa, Mart Vernik, M. Luukas, Andres Rootalu, M. Aasa) ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m);
another three climbers (K. Kirspuu, K. Merisalu, Sven Illing) ascend the summit on July 25
- on 3 August, Pik Lenin
(7134m) is ascended by three climbers of an NR-organized expedition: K. Kiiranen (63), A. Sülla, and Marie Saame (an Estonian musician of 26)
- on 5 August, Ü. Põld and T. Tamm ascend
Pik Korzhenevskaya (7105m) once again
2017
- on 13 July, two climbers (Tõnis Aaliste, Ahti Grünberg) ascend
Matterhorn (4478m)
via Hörnligrat
- six Estonian climbers led by Martin Suga ascend
Stok Kangri (6134m, India)
- in course of an expedition led by K. Kiiranen:
Pik Korzhenevskaya
(7105m) is ascended on 29 July by K. Merisalu; Mt.
Ismoil Samani (7495m)
is ascended on 6 August by four climbers (M. Luukas + A. Rästa, K. Kiiranen (64), K. Kirspuu) and on 7 August by A. Sülla
2018
EV100
Many climbers dedicate their
climbs to the centennial of the Republic of Estonia;
the most remarkable successful feats are listed below:
- in January, V. Sipelgas ascends
Ojos del Salado (6893m, the
Andes), the second highest mountain in South America and the highest active volcano on Earth
- in Bolivian Andes, three Estonian climbers (I. Tammemägi, Priit Toomsalu, Tanel Raud) ascend
Huayna Potosi (6088m) on 9 March and
Nevado Sajama (6542m, the highest mountain in Bolivia) on 14 March
- on 2 June, five climbers (K. Karu + Erik Liim, Taavi Kruut, K. Merisalu, K. Kiiranen) ascend
Damavand (5671m) in
Alborz Mountains, Northern Iran
- on 22 July, Andras Kaasik becomes the first Estonian climber to ascend
K2 (8611m) in
Karakoram (Pakistan), with an international
Madison Mountaineering expedition
- in course of an Estonian expedition to Eastern
Karakoram (India, the state of Jammu and Kashmir) led by K.-E. Suurväli, 7 climbers (K.-E. Suurväli, S. Oja, P. Joosu, L. Ehrenpreis, M. Luukas, P. Simson, L. Stern) accomplish in July the first passage of two glaciers and of a new 6030m high mountain pass; on 22 July they perform the First Ascent of a 6801m high (according to the group's GPS measurements) virgin peak, which was previously known as
Kunchang Kangri
- Pik Lenin (7134m) is ascended by I. Tammemägi on 17 July and by P. Toomsalu on 23 July
- in course of an expedition led by K. Merisalu:
Pik Korzhenevskaya
(7105m) is ascended on 27 July by Tannar Esna and Oliver Liiv, on 5 August by M. Saame; Mt.
Ismoil Samani (7495m)
is ascended on 7 August by three climbers (T. Esna, S. Illing, O. Liiv) and on 9 August by K. Merisalu
- on 4 August, A. Rästa and K. Kirspuu ascend
Khan Tengri (7010m), K. Kiiranen reaches an altitude of ~6850m
- in August, Rees-Roonius Juurmaa ("Firn") participates in technical climbs in
Fann Mountains (Pamir-Alay, Tajikistan), ascending summits of Chapdara (5049m) and Zamok (5070m) via routes rated 5A (RUS)
- in course of an Estonian
Pamir
expedition led by R. Plumer, 10 climbers (R. Plumer, Inna Lepik, P. Jaagant, A. Rõõmussaar, Teet Ilves, A. Mere, V. Vaade, A. Polma, Tanel Leisalu, M. Proos) ascend peak Estonia (6211m) on 22 August; three climbers (P. Jaagant, I. Lepik, A. Mere) ascend
Pik Lenin (7134m) on 31 August
2019
- on 1 January, an Estonian journalist Kertu Jukkum ascends
Aconcagua (6961m, the
Andes)
- on 10 February, J. Kütt ("Firn") summits peak
Aconcagua (6961m, the
Andes) via the 360 route
- on 8 June, Krisli Melesk ascends
Mt. McKinley
(6190m, Alaska),
becoming the second Estonian woman on the summit
- in course of an Andes journey led by M. Suga, Cerro Mercedario (6720m) is ascended on 5 February by M. Suga and M. Saame, Ojos del Salado (6893m) is ascended on 12 February by M. Saame, and Aconcagua (6961m) is ascended in February by Kersti Rüütelmaa and Ehtel Taevere
- on 26 July, M. Saame becomes the first Estonian climber to ascend
Noshaq (7492m), the highest peak in Afghanistan and the second highest peak in the Hindu Kush Range, while taking part in a self-organized international expedition
- R.-R. Juurmaa ("Firn") performs a 5B (RUS) - rated ascent in Central
Caucasus (Missestau, 4425m), and becomes an UIAA-certified mountain guide
- on 8 August, four Estonian climbers (P. Joosu + A. Rästa, A. Kaasik, K. Kirspuu) ascend
Jengish Chokusu
(7439m,
Tian Shan), Joosu and Rästa obtaining the title of
'Snow Leopard'
- on 26 September, K. Merisalu becomes the first Estonian woman to summit a 8000+m high peak:
Manaslu (8163m, Central Nepal Himalaya)
- from 25 November, T. Tuuleveski is skiing solo 940 km without any external support in Antarctica via the Messner route and reaches the South Pole in 35 days; after that he ascends
Vinson Massif (4892m) thus becoming the third Estonian climber to join the
Seven Summits "club"
2020
- in July, a group of four climbers (K. Kirspuu, M. Saame, A. Rästa, M. Luukas) ascends
Matterhorn (4477m) via Liongrat
Tallinn: in November, COVID-19 claims the life of Tõivo Sarmet †
2021
- a new bouldering gym ("Ronimistehas" = RT) is opened in Tartu
- on May 23, K. Melesk becomes the first Estonian woman to ascend
Mt. Everest (8849m), while participating in an international
Madison Mountaineering expedition (from Nepal); an attempt made by K. Merisalu fails due to catching COVID-19
- on 18 July, M. Saame and J. Kütt are the first Estonian climbers to summit
Gasherbrum II (8035m,
Karakoram, Pakistan), while taking part in a self-organized international expedition
- on 15 August, Kaspar Evald ascends
Matterhorn (4478m) via Hörnligrat
2022
- in the end of May, K. Karu ascends
Mt. McKinley
(6190m, Alaska)
- on 2 June, a group of 8 Estonian climbers (K. Merisalu + F. Viidul, K. Eevald, Kerttu Olveti, T. Esna, A. Mere, Einar Kivisalu, J. Kütt) ascends
Mt. McKinley
(6190m, Alaska)
- on 18 July, M. Saame becomes the first Estonian woman to ascend
Broad Peak (8051m) in
Karakoram (Pakistan), while taking part in a
self-organized international expedition; in her subsequent attempt to climb K2 she reaches an altitude of ~8200m
- on 22 July, K. Melesk becomes the first Estonian woman to ascend
K2 (8611m) in
Karakoram (Pakistan), with the international
Madison Mountaineering expedition
- on 22 July, four Estonian climbers (P. Joosu, L. Ehrenpreis, K. Kirspuu, A. Rästa) ascend
Gasherbrum II (8035m,
Karakoram, Pakistan) without using any auxiliary oxygen
Last update: May 2023
Comments and contributions are appreciated!
(if possible English or Estonian please)
This first version of this page appeared on November 18, 1997